Everyday Kei #4: DIY Tank Vest



Remember the tank vest I wore to Black Crystal's concert at Whiskey A Go Go?
Here's a little tutorial on how you can replicate this look or inspire your own.



Materials:

  • 1 yard white, knit fabric
  • 2 yards vinyl strapping with eyelet row
  • Long, silver zipper
  • 2 yards thin black chain

1. Pick a knit fabric of any desired color. Make sure that the fabric width is 60 inches and purchase 1 yard. Any width less than 60 inches will not give you a nice drape at the bottom hem.

2. Fold in half and cut along the fold. Now you will have two pieces of fabric both 30x36 inches.
3. Drape the longer side, 36 inches, horizontally across the mannequin with one piece in the front and the other in the back. Make sure that the edge goes a couple inches over the shoulder seam so you have seam allowance later on.
4. Front:
With the fabric on the mannequin trace how wide and low you want the neckline, how wide the straps and the length of the armhole. I personally like the armhole to drop several inches down.
5. Back:
As with the front, with the fabric draped on the mannequin trace your desired cuts. How low the back neckline, and armhole.
*Note: make sure your straps from the front and back meet nicely and flow smoothly into one another. This also applies to the side seams where your armhole meets.
The red lines in the figure below are suggested markings from the directions above.

6. When desired measurements are marked on, take the fabric pieces off the mannequin and lay them on a flat surface.

7. Draw a line from the edge of the armhole directly to the corner of the fabric. This also depends on the amount of drape desired. For a fuller drape draw to the corner, but for a less drape then draw a smaller width.
Front
8. Repeat for the back.

In order for this garment to be a tank vest instead of an A-line dress, the center of the bottom hem needs to be shorter in length.

9. From the corners of the bottom hem draw a curved line with the apex of the curve highest at center back and center front. The amount of curve is also dictated by desired length. I made mine longer so I could wear leggings under without shorts.
Back
Light blue lines in the diagram are where I slashed in order to sew in the eyelet strapping in the front and zipper in the back.

10. As you cut out the garment remember to leave 1/2 seam allowance or else it will be a size too small.

11. Piece together the front and back by sewing the shoulder straps and side seams right side together.

12. Finish off by hemming the bottom hem, neckline, and armhole. This could either be done by overlocking and sewing it down or turn-and-roll hem. I added chains to the sleeves to give the garment more personality but feel free to add any other details to make it suitable to your style.

13. Sewing the strapping/zipper:
It's actually quite simple. Place the strapping, right sides together, on the fabric and sew along all the edges. Fold it over so that the right sides are no longer facing together but instead facing up. Topstitch down to secure all around the border.
The reason we cut a little arrow notch at the top is for it to allow the width of the strapping to be sewn on without warping the fabric. If this isn't done you will get ugly folds or bulges in your finished product.

Side notes:
Using a knit fabric that is too loose or "squirrely" makes it harder to sew so choose something that has a little more structure.
Fabric widths come in 36, 45, and 60 inches so make sure to take this into account.

Have Fun!


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